Driving the Hà Giang Loop by motorbike is a must-do activity for anyone travelling in Vietnam. Northern Vietnam offers stunning views as far as the eyes can see, and self-driving the infamous Hà Giang loop is an adventure of a lifetime!
Why we recommend self driving over Easy Rider tours
How much it costs us for a 5 day – 4 night self driving tour
Our top tips to help you have the most amazing time at Ha Giang Loop
Ha Giang Loop- Self-drive or Easy Rider tour?
These are your 2 options once you have decided to drive the Hà Giang Loop by motorbike. Our advice? If you have an international driving license that allows you to drive a motorbike, you can easily self-drive the route. And yes, the police do check your license, we were stopped 4 times at checkpoints at different times of the day along different stretches of the loop. Don’t risk it, your motobike will be impounded if you are found to have the wrong license.
Hiring an ‘Easy Rider’ is the most common choice for travellers. These are driver guides that chauffeur you on the whole trip allowing you to relax and take in the views. You do the tour as part of a larger group with a set route, meals included, and accommodation organised in advance. These tours are very social and saves on planning time, so why would you do it any other way?
Here are our 5 reasons you should self drive the Ha Giang Loop in Vietnam…
BBQ at the night market in Ha Giang
1. Save Money
Our 5-day and 4-night self-driving tour cost a total of £259 for 2 people. This included: 5 days of motorbike hire (Honda XR 150cc), fuel, accommodation, food, drinks, and snacks. The cheapest Easy Rider tour packages we found were £155 per person for 3 days and 3 nights. We stayed in en-suite private rooms and ate VERY well! You can easily do this tour on a lower budget by renting a cheaper motorbike and lower-cost homestays.
Coffee with a view- Ha Giang Loop
2. Explore at your own pace
It’s difficult to get lost on this route. By self-driving you choose how many stops to make along the way, where you want to explore, and where to spend more time. Getting a sore bum from sitting on it all day? Take a Vietnamese coffee break and admire the views! Want to spend more time in one town, book an extra night stay. We used Google Maps to navigate if needed and it worked great.
Bamboo Raft Crossing Ha Giang
3. Find the hidden gems
Explore fishing hidden away fishing villages and rice farms off the main loop. Stop at roadside food stalls to eat alongside locals. You won’t find ‘tourist prices’ here! And have you heard about the bamboo raft to cross the Nho Quế River? Due to the muddy road conditions, motorbike tours will avoid this route and use the tourist boats to cross. This is one for the more experienced motorbike riders!
Cliff of Death- Ha Giang Loop
4. Avoid the crowds
Group tours are known for their lively evenings enjoying ‘Happy Water’ and singing karaoke into the early hours. They also generally follow a set route which inevitably means the main attractions such as waterfalls can get overcrowded. Getting an early night in a quieter homestay and setting off ahead of the crowds means you could have that waterfall all to yourself!
Coffee shop owner Ha Giang Viewing Point
5. Spend time with locals
The Hà Giang Loop is not as well traveled as neighbouring Sapa in Northern Vietnam. This means businesses are usually run by locals and English is less widely spoken. With a little help from Google Translate, you have the opportunity to learn more about their way of life and support their business. This is exactly how we got to know Thào (pictured) who had recently set up a coffee shack at a viewing point on the loop. To help promote his new business we created an IG Reel to share his location and delicious coffee .
When we were looking into the pros and cons of self driving versus Easy Rider tours, we didn’t find a huge amount of useful information online. So we hope that sharing our costs, top tips, and experiences has been helpful in your research. Have an amazing time, it was truelly one of the best experiences of our month long trip across Vietnam!
Experiencing the delights of Nyonya Cuisine in Kuching
Nyonya Kitchen By Sonia in Kuching
Looking for traditional Nyonya food in Kuching? As hard to please Foodies, were very impressed by the delicious food at Nyonya Kitchen by Sonia. It was the most memorable meal we had in Sarawak! If you have yet to experience Nyonya flavours, you should expect fragrant spices, flavourful stews, and lots of variety.
Whilst visiting family in the City of Kuching, the capital and the most populous city in Sarawak Malaysia, we were taken on the most delicious food tour only locals can do!
We tasted local Sarawak foods such as Sarawak Laksa (a savoury spicy noodle dish that is unique as it has a blend of spices, aromatics, herbs, tamarind paste, and creamy coconut milk), Kolo Mee (dry noodles tossed in a savoury pork and shallot mixture, topped off with fragrant fried onions), and Kacang Ma (Motherwort Chicken) but the most memorable meal was on our final evening when we were taken to Nyonya Kitchen By Sonia and enjoyed a feast of traditional Nyonya home cooking.
What is Nyonya food?
Nyonya food, also known as Peranakan cuisine, is a fusion of Chinese, Malay, and Indonesian cooking techniques and ingredients. It’s known for its use of spices, herbs, and aromatics, and is often described as tangy, spicy, and aromatic.
Is Nyonya food spicy?
Nyonya food can be spicy, but it also tastes sweet, salty, and sour. There is a balance of flavours, so chili spice isn’t a dominant one.
What does Nyonya mean?
Nyonya (also spelled nyonyah or nonya) is a Malay and Indonesian honorific used to refer to a ‘foreign married lady’. It is a loan word, borrowed from the old Portuguese word for lady donha. Many Peranakans trace their origins to 15th-century Malacca, where their ancestors were thought to be Chinese traders who married local women. Peranakan men are known as baba, while the women are known as Nonya (or Nyonya).
As guests with little knowledge of Nyonya food, we asked our hosts to select the dishes from the extensive menu. The result was a delicious array of starters and mains with a range of flavours to pick and choose from.
As you can see from the pictures above we were spoilt for choice and this wasn’t all the food! The food was served as it was ready, as with most Asian restaurants, so at some point, we were busy eating and chatting and began to neglect the photos!
See the photo captions for the names of the dishes. We had a selection of seafood and meat dishes, all with balanced flavours, and came in large portions. We had so much left over that it was taken home for lunch the next day.
The only part of the meal we felt a little disappointed by was desserts. They felt like an afterthought, and we had much better Chendol at street food hawker stalls around Kuching.
Nyonya Chicken CurrySago Melaka and Ice ChendolNyonya Kitchen Abacus WallNyonya Kitchen Kuching
The decor in Nyonya Kitchen is absolutely stunning! Using local materials and drawing from Peranakan culture, the dining room is a colourful delight with so many details to explore and admire. The fabulous mural is eye-catching and captures the essence of Nyonya’s kitchen. The abacus wall is a fun addition, making a 3D display art piece that adds interesting textures to the feature wall. There are also displays of family photos and vintage lamps and fans which make you feel like you’ve been welcomed into a family living room.
The staff are attentive and we enjoyed the chilled vibe of the restaurant. It was a fairly quiet midweek evening, but it’s sure to be busy at weekends and during festive times so be sure to make a reservation.
Overall Food: 9/10
Value for Money: We didn’t pay, but menu prices are affordable.
Service: 8/10
Atmosphere: 8/10
How to find them
Address: In Front of The Banquet Restaurant – Sublot 15,16, 17, Jalan Datuk Tawi Sli, The 3rd Exchange Commercial Centre, Kuching, MalaysiaPhone: +60 18-989 5656Email: jc.orientalhcsb23@gmail.comNyonya Kitchen by SoniaSocials
Your Ultimate Guide To Toby And Thelmas Island Camping Adventure
You’re going island hopping in The Philippines and Palawan Island is one of the stops. You are looking for mid-range accommodation and also want to see more than the main tourist stops of El-Nido and Puerto Princesa. Maybe you’ve read that Port Barton is a little-known, but up-and-coming, sleepy seaside village that travelers are only just discovering.
In May 2024, we spent 4 nights at Palawan Camping in a beachfront tent and barely saw any other people for most of our stay. We spent our days paddleboarding, kayaking, and snorkeling in the crystal clear waters whilst enjoying fresh seafood and homecooked meals. Here we share all you need to know to book your once-in-a-lifetime stay at this island paradise.
Toby and Thelmas Island Adventure
Palawan Camping, also known as Toby and Thelmas Island Camping Adventure, is a fully self-contained campsite providing everything you need to enjoy an all-included holiday in this exclusive paradise.
View of the beach from the campBeachside tent at Palawan Camping
How to book your stay
You will not find Palawan Camping on any hotel booking sites, so booking directly with them via email is the only way to secure your stay. It is best to choose your dates and enquire about availability in advance as they can be very busy with large groups. We booked the accommodation 1 month ahead and were lucky to have the whole campsite to ourselves for the first day.
BreakfastLunchEvening Meal
What is included
Private, well ventilated, tent with shared WC and shower room or a hut with ensuite facilities (for larger groups or families)
Unrestricted views of the beach and sea from your bed
Double bed, carpeted floor, couch and easy chairs, and lots of extra space
3 home-cooked seasonal meals each day and drinking water
Unlimited use of kayaks, snorkeling gear, badminton, volleyball, and paddle boards
Additional fees
Soft drinks, alcohol, hot drinks, fruit salads (see menus below for the prices)
Offshore snorkeling trips (we didn’t do this)
Boat transfer to the island (see next section for the costs)
Drinks MenuCocktail MenuBreakfast menu
At Palawan Camping your meals will be prepared according to your dietary needs, are predominantly Filipino traditional meals, and cooked for you to order for the time you agree in advance. You can choose what you want off the breakfast menu and it is best to order the night before, especially if there are a lot of guests to cater for.
For omnivores, the afternoon and evening meals often center around the ‘catch of the day’ as fresh fish is delivered by boat from fishermen from neighboring San Vicente. The camp team understands vegetarian and vegan needs well, so will prepare appropriate meals if this is your preference.
Palawan Camping’s additional drinks are affordable and can be put on a tab to be paid when you’re checking out. There is no shop on the campsite so bring any snacks or specific drinks you need with you.
How much it costs
The Palawan Camping website advertises their rate as 3000 pesos, per person, per day. This includes 3 hearty meals and all sports activities. Children under 10 are 1/2 price if they are accommodated in the same tent as parents. *published prices in May 2024
Additional costs: (Cash only, no card payment facilities)
Boat Transfer to the campsite from Port Barton – 300 pesos per person each way (required)
Staff tips (optional)
We stayed at Palawan Camping for 4 nights in early May 2024. At the time the exchange rate was 63 PHP = £1 so this is the breakdown of our costs for 2 adults sharing one tent. The total came to £458.25
Mini-van to Port Barton from Puerto Princesa airport (1200 pesos)
£19.05
Trishaw from the Port Barton mini-van stop to the port (50 Pesos)
£0.79
Return private boat transfer to the camp (1200 PHP)
£9.52
4 nights stay at Toby and Thelmas Island Camping Adventure (24000 PHP)
£380.95
Optional Staff tip (2000 Pesos)
£28.17
Extra coffees, soft drinks, and fruit salads in camp (1440 Pesos)
£19.77
When looking at accommodation costs in nearby Port Barton, we found there was cheaper accommodation available. However, none included your meals and most were on public beaches or further inland.
To give you an idea of the food costs in the area, when we first arrived at Port Barton we ate a traditional Filipino seafood lunch at Rocel’s Beach Barn for 650 Pesos, that’s just over £10 for two people. On our way out of Port Barton, we had a Western-style brunch at The Fat Cat Cafe with coffee for 1100 Pesos (£15.50). These were meals at larger, tourist-focused, eateries so there are cheaper local options were available.
Overall we felt that the additional cost of having the private beach to ourselves, away from the crowds, and the unique experiences we had due to the generosity of the amazing staff team at the camp, was worth the overall price.
The best time to go
We were in the Philippines for the first two weeks of May 2024. The weather was mostly hot and humid with the odd rain shower to cool things down. We had planned on being there in June but we rearranged our plans when we found out June would be the rainy season.
Popular months: December to February when temperatures are at their coolest and the rain generally stays away.
Months to be wary of: March to May it gets very hot and humid.
Months to avoid: June to October is when the rains can disrupt planes, cars, and boats so your travel plans will need to be more flexible.
* These are guidelines only. With climate change affecting the Earth’s weather systems it’s best to plan accordingly!
Sunset at the campPalawan Camping private beach
How to get there
We flew into Palawan island from Manila via Puerto Princesa airport, arriving at sunrise. Most travelers will arrive here or enter via El-Nido, on the north of the island, by plane or ferry.
There is an ATM and toilets inside the airport terminal, so be sure to use them before you leave. You can get back in but need to go through security again to do so.
You then need to make your way to the seaside village of Port Barton. You could probably arrange a private transfer but we went by mini-van, a common transport option for longer distance travel in the Philippines.
On exiting the airport you will find mini-van drivers that take people to various destinations across the island. We got the number for a driver from the accommodation team, but you can easily ask the drivers that hang around the entrance. The ride to Port Barton takes approx 3 hours and is an adventure in itself! The one-way journey costs 600 Pesos per passenger, and they will squeeze as many people as physically possible into the mini-van. Embrace the experience!
Arriving at Puerto Princesa AirportPort BartonTrishaw to the boat port
Palawan Camping is only accessible by private boat. No road takes you there and no public ferry or boats. This is what makes it a hidden island adventure!
On arriving at the seaside village of Port Barton we took a Trishaw to the beachfront to get the boat transfer. We then found that it was walkable in 15 minutes, but we didn’t know how far the meeting point was, and the trishaw was cheap at 50 pesos (80p) for two people. We also asked the trishaw driver to take us to an ATM to withdraw our accommodation money, which saved us from trekking the streets in over 30-degree heat!
We had some time spare before our prearranged private boat transfer so we grabbed an early lunch, bought some essentials at the local shops, and withdrew cash at the ATM since they only accept cash at the campsite. (You cannot pay for the accommodation online or by card!)
The transfer leaves from outside Rocel’s Bed and Breakfast and takes about 25 minutes. The staff there know Thelma well and are happy for you to wait in the shade of their buildings for the boat to arrive. We chose to eat at their attached restaurant. The food and juices are delicious!
The 25-minute catamaran ride to the campsite is a treat in itself. You get your first glimpse of what you have in store for you as you leave Port Barton and head out to the more remote areas of Palawan. Seeing the campsite appear in front of you is just breathtaking.
View from inside the tentHaving lunch at the Palawan Camping
Our top tips for a stress-free stay
Take cash with you. As with many local Philippines businesses they do not accept card or online payments. You will need enough cash to pay for all your accommodation, travel costs, and any extra food and drinks.
There is minimal phone signal on the campsite. Embrace the silence and stay off your screens. This is your time to relax, do watersports, or read a paperback book.
Electricity is on from around 6pm to around 10 pm in the main building, this is where you can charge your devices should you need to.
Shop for snacks in Port Barton. The meals are very filling so this isn’t essential but if you like to snack there is no shop to buy from. The on-site bar occasionally has some available but it’s not guaranteed.
Boat trips are available for an additional cost. Ask the staff about island hopping tours or off-shore snorkeling trips.
Palawan Camping view from the sea
We had an incredible experience at Palawan Camping in Port Barton
With breathtaking sea views from our bed, it’s the ultimate island escape. The delicious homemade Filipino meals cooked by the on-site team were also a big highlight. But don’t forget to bring snacks with you as no shops are nearby. We went there to relax and unwind, but if you want to explore more you can enquire about the boat trips for island hopping and off-shore snorkeling. If you’re looking for a fantastic mid-range option while exploring Palawan, Palawan Camping comes highly recommended.
To see more reviews of Toby and Thelmas Island Camping Adventure check out Trip Advisor. Enjoy your trip to The Philippines!
Inside the Batu Caves Kuala LumpurBatu Caves Malaysia
Visiting the Batu Caves for the first time?
We share our experience with you. This is all you need to know to prepare for your half day visit to the Batu Caves, and yes it is worth going!
How to get to the Batu Caves
The number of steps at Batu Caves
What to wear
How much time to spend there, opening times & tickets
The Batu Cave Monkeys
How to get to the Batu Caves
It was raining heavily the morning we went, so we took a taxi using the ‘Grab’ app. It took 25 minutes from our hotel in the city centre and cost around 45 Ringgits (MYR) approximately £7.50.
There is a train station right next to the Batu Caves which takes you directly to the city centre. We took the train back for 2.5 Ringgits each, that’s around 85 pence for 2 people! The train only runs every 30 minutes and takes 35 minutes to reach the city centre. If you’re on a limited budget and time your visit with the train times, this is your best option!
No. of Steps:
There are 272 steps to climb so it’s not one for people with bad knees! You don’t have to be an avid hiker to get to the top, there is plenty of space for you to rest along the way, watch the monkeys play, and turn around to admire the stunning views of the city below.
There is no other way to get to the top! It takes around 15 minutes.
What to wear:
Where light clothing that covers your shoulders and down to your knees. You are entering a religious site. Bring a shawl to cover up of needed, or rent one from at the entrance to the cave.
It was raining heavily when we went so we wore rain jackets. It can get a bit hot in the cave, so thin layers are best!
How much time you need, Opening hours and Tickets
We spent approximately 2 hours there, so including travel time it’s easily done in half a day.
The Batu Cave is open from 6am to 9pm.
The lesser known Ramayana Cave (separate entrance) is open 9am to 6.30pm, there is 10 Ringgit per person entry fee. The Dark Cave is now permanently closed to visitors.
No tickets are needed, just turn up! It’s free to enter but leave a donation if you have the means to.
The Batu Cave Monkeys
An attraction in themselves! The Batu Cave Monkeys are lots of fun to watch, especially on your way up to the top. They roam freely and are very used to being around people.
You may have heard the monkeys can attack people or steal food, we did not see this happen but it’s best to be cautious and avoid eating near them or approaching them. They are wild animals after all!Batu Cave Monkey Mama and Baby
Your top 3 tips for a great visit:
We had a lovely time at the Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur and would recommend it to anyone wanting to escape the busy city for a while.
Our 3 top tips for making your trip a better one:
1) It’s best to go early in the morning or later in the afternoon if it’s due to be a hot day. The rain can make the steps slippery so wear shoes with a good grip!
2) Use the toilet before you go up the steps, the only public facilities are on the ground level.
3) Water and snacks are available from the food vendors on the site and next to the train station, so you won’t go hungry. (Just remember to avoid eating near the cheeky monkeys!)
